52 Ancestors in 52 Weeks
Week 5
Prompt – So Far Away
In the early spring of 2007 I had the
opportunity of a lifetime to go to Japan where my daughter was
teaching English to school children. It was called The Jet Program
which stood for Japan Exchange and Teaching Program where university
graduates can apply for a 3 year contract to teach school age
children. She applied and was accepted to teach in Onomichi.
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| Jackie Teaching in Classroom |
If there was a bucket type list of
places I would like to travel to, Asia was second last. Africa is
last.
The travel gods aligned and after much
trepidation I booked a 30 day trip to Japan. It was my thought that
if I was going so far away, I was going to make it worth my time.
Unfortunately, Bill did not have 30 days of holidays to take.
One of those things I dreaded most was
the long long flight. I left from Calgary and flew to San Francisco
and then had a 5 1/2 hour wait at the airport to catch a 11 1/2 hour
flight to Osaka. Then once I landed Jackie and I took an hour long
bus trip to get to Kobe where Jackie got a hotel room so I might
finally get some rest. Further there was a 16 hour time difference.
It was all very disorienting.
My first full day in Japan was spent
wondering around the city of Kobe with Jackie close to my side. I
definitely had the feeling that I wasn't in Kansas anymore! I found
that not being able to read street, store or other signs very
disconcerting. In Germany, France and Holland I could at least read
the letters and make a guess at what the word could be. But Hiragana
might as well been hieroglyphics. I did not realize how much I read
without thinking about it. I prepared myself for not understanding
the spoken words but not for the written word. Since I could not
make sense of the spoken or written word, I feel that my visual
acuity took over. I liked what I saw. And then I blogged about it so
I would not forget about it. Recently I have re read my blogs and it
brings so many happy wonderful moments of a time long long ago in a
far away place.
At the end of my first week in Japan I
wrote the following in a blog I called
Another Day and Another City
“Jackie tells me it is Monday.
Tomorrow we leave on the Shinkansen for Kyoto. Yea us.
I would love to update you however it has been very active and busy at this end. Not that there is anything wrong with that.
Let's see, we have been to Kobe, Onomichi, Hiroshima, Myojima, and back to Onomichi to do the laundry but first we went to Fukuyama this morning. It is approximately 18 minutes by train from Onomichi. Right outside of the train station they have a huge Starbucks. Ah it was so sweet to have my favorite misto. I will be going often to Fukuyama to get my Starbucks's fix. I even sat an hour and a half catching up on my journal and people watching. It was a piece of heaven to know some things are the same the world over.”
I would love to update you however it has been very active and busy at this end. Not that there is anything wrong with that.
Let's see, we have been to Kobe, Onomichi, Hiroshima, Myojima, and back to Onomichi to do the laundry but first we went to Fukuyama this morning. It is approximately 18 minutes by train from Onomichi. Right outside of the train station they have a huge Starbucks. Ah it was so sweet to have my favorite misto. I will be going often to Fukuyama to get my Starbucks's fix. I even sat an hour and a half catching up on my journal and people watching. It was a piece of heaven to know some things are the same the world over.”
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| Overlooking Kobe |
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| Kyoto - Kinkako- Ji (Golden Shrine) |
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| Kyoto - Ryōan-ji |
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| Todaiji Ju Temple in Nara |
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| Fushimi Inari |
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| Hiroshima Peace Memorial |
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| Hiroshima Atomic Dome |
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| Iconic Orange Torii Gate Miyagima |
In Kyoto I learned about Ryokans and
Onsens. We stayed in a Ryokan which is a Japanese style inn. I
blogged this. “Our room was covered wall to wall with tatami mats.
Tatami mats are straw covered mats that traditionally cover Japanese
floors. To me it smelled of hay fields, but Jackie really liked the
smell. Jackie immediately rearranged the table and we set up our
futon beds. In an upper end ryokan, this would be set up for you. We
had to figure it out for ourselves. We each had two futons to lie on.
The second futon is covered in a fitted sheet. This is to lie on top
of. You are provided with the whitest flat sheet which we figured out
must go next and then the last futon is for covering up with. I
provided no end of amusement the second night trying to figure out
how to get it set up exactly. In the end I was lying on three futons
and had one sheet over me and that was on the second or third try. “
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| Our Ryokan with Tatami Mats and Futons |
“The key to a ryokan is the onsen or
the communal bath. Our onsen was on the fifth floor. There is a very
strict protocol in using the onsen. You enter the changing room and
grab a basket to put your belongings into. You undress right there
and with any other women who are there. You leave your basket of
clothes and walk naked into the hot tub room. Along the wall is a row
of shower heads at thigh height. You grab a bucket to sit on and a
wash basin. You walk over to a shower head. You sit on a bucket and
proceed to wash yourself thoroughly. I mean thoroughly. You start
with your scalp and hair. Rinse. You then lather every inch of your
body with soap and be sure to get between your toes and both cheeks
if you know what I mean. Rinse and for good luck do it once more.
Once you are squeaky clean and rinsed you can proceed to the bath
which is very warm. You sit naked in there with others careful to
avert your eyes. That means you are staring at your own body. In my
case that was frightening of and in itself. After you can't stand it
anymore you walk out, dry and put on your yukata and walk back to
your room. Remember to wear your slippers. Jackie had to tell me that
your shoes and slippers are always placed facing towards the door.
Who knew?!!
I have slept in my first ryokan and used the communal
bath. These two experiences were great. Japan has some real treasures
and some of them are not on the UNESCO World Heritage sight.”
In my next blog I chose to write about
those everyday things such as toilets. Japanese traditional toilets
are of the squat type.
And You Thought I Would Talk Of Golden Shrines!
"I must admit that among other things,
using a squat toilet was definitely on my list of living outside "the
box" or my comfort zone. I thought about it often and talked to
Jackie about it. She said not to worry about it as western toilets
have become more popular.
A squat toilet looks like a urinal laying on the floor. I was told that you walk in and pull down your clothes and squat. Remember I was telling you about the agility of the Japanese women and men, well now I know why.
I saw my first squat toilet at a tour site in Kobe. Jackie was good enough to tell me that the wheelchair stalls always have Western toilets. Well suddenly I was happy and started to use them exclusively. For the next few days, Jackie would go into the restroom first and then come back to report to me about it's status. It's a western one, mom or it is a great bathroom if you need to use it. The funny thing is that I would only need to use it if it was western. Jackie caught on and then decide that I would have to find out for myself. Great trepidation followed me the first time and to my great relief it was a beautiful bathroom with many many stalls and most were squat, but the rest stop had labelled maybe a half dozen as Western. Yea for me again.
I would like to add at this time that toilets are either squat or the Mercedes type. I sat on the toilet seat and just about shot off because it was heated. Who knew that heated seats really existed? Not a bad touch. But God forbid they put more than one button beside the toilet. Then you were taking your chances as to whether it might shoot water or blow dry you. I speak the truth.
A squat toilet looks like a urinal laying on the floor. I was told that you walk in and pull down your clothes and squat. Remember I was telling you about the agility of the Japanese women and men, well now I know why.
I saw my first squat toilet at a tour site in Kobe. Jackie was good enough to tell me that the wheelchair stalls always have Western toilets. Well suddenly I was happy and started to use them exclusively. For the next few days, Jackie would go into the restroom first and then come back to report to me about it's status. It's a western one, mom or it is a great bathroom if you need to use it. The funny thing is that I would only need to use it if it was western. Jackie caught on and then decide that I would have to find out for myself. Great trepidation followed me the first time and to my great relief it was a beautiful bathroom with many many stalls and most were squat, but the rest stop had labelled maybe a half dozen as Western. Yea for me again.
I would like to add at this time that toilets are either squat or the Mercedes type. I sat on the toilet seat and just about shot off because it was heated. Who knew that heated seats really existed? Not a bad touch. But God forbid they put more than one button beside the toilet. Then you were taking your chances as to whether it might shoot water or blow dry you. I speak the truth.
After a week of avoiding squat toilets
and feeling kind of good about it, I met my match in an out of the
way temple in Kyoto. It was squat or nothing. I could not ignore
mother nature this time and had to use it. I managed but was
mortified that I would come out with a wet spot on my pants
somewhere.”
If one is to visit Japan there could be
no better time than the spring during cherry blossom time. It is
called Sakura.
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| Hanami Party Under Sakura |
The Sakura Have Bloomed
Onomichi is a beautiful city. I can see
why Jackie loves it. Yesterday we met up with Jackie's friend and
language teacher, Yoko. Yoko has live in Onomichi for most of her
life. She is a wonderfully warm women who has gone to great lengths
to help Jackie with plans and sights for us to visit while I am in
Japan.
After lunch we took the rope-way (cable car) to the top of the mountain in Onomichi. We had picked a beautiful day. The Sakura were out in full bloom. The sight was breathtaking and I must admit that no picture will ever do it justice. The views from the observation deck allowed me to see all of Onomichi and some of the many islands in the Inland Sea. The atmosphere is almost festival like. Some families were picnicking under the cherry blossom trees. This is called Hanami and is often declared a national holiday when the blossoms are in full bloom.
Yoko was wonderful to have along. Her English is quite good. She was able to point out several things that we would not have known. The mountains of Onomichi have many temples and shrines. She took us to one of the older ones and shared information about it. We had a very interesting discussion on graves and how all are cremated in Japan. She found it interesting that we did not always cremate. She found it hard to believe that one grave could be for one person. The graves we saw were for families.”
After lunch we took the rope-way (cable car) to the top of the mountain in Onomichi. We had picked a beautiful day. The Sakura were out in full bloom. The sight was breathtaking and I must admit that no picture will ever do it justice. The views from the observation deck allowed me to see all of Onomichi and some of the many islands in the Inland Sea. The atmosphere is almost festival like. Some families were picnicking under the cherry blossom trees. This is called Hanami and is often declared a national holiday when the blossoms are in full bloom.
Yoko was wonderful to have along. Her English is quite good. She was able to point out several things that we would not have known. The mountains of Onomichi have many temples and shrines. She took us to one of the older ones and shared information about it. We had a very interesting discussion on graves and how all are cremated in Japan. She found it interesting that we did not always cremate. She found it hard to believe that one grave could be for one person. The graves we saw were for families.”
These little gems about Japan from a
local person were awesome and not something I would have gotten from
a regular tour.
Japan And My Coffee
...However all kidding aside, the walk
back to Jackie's home is wonderful. We pass by one of many temples
and shrines in Onomichi. I also step lively past the graveyard.(It
creeps me out), but they are everywhere. The walk ways are sidewalk
narrow and meander between houses at times just arm lengths apart. It
is history that I walk by every day while getting my coffee from the
vending machines. It is beautiful trimmed trees and gardens. It is
Cherry blossom trees. It is flowers. It is homes that are so paper
thin that you can hear what is happening on the other side of the
wall just a few inches away. It is hundred of years of eeking out
every square inch of land for the people who live on it. It is
nothing I have ever seen or experienced on my walks at home in
Calgary. And I love it.”
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| Jackie's Onomichi Home |
A Japanese Afternoon.
I think I left off talking about going
to Jackie's teacher, Yoko San, for the afternoon. Yoko has been just
wonderful to me. She picked me up that afternoon. I forgot how nice
it is to have a car to come and go as you please. Yoko is easy to
talk to and at times not so easy to understand. She actually has
remarkable English skills. This is really quite uncommon for
Onomichi. I also believe that she is very curious about "foreigners".
As she said to me that in as little as ten years ago, seeing white
people in Onomichi was very rare. Now that teaching English has been
mandated in all the grades, the English speaking students are coming
to all the cities, towns and villages and teaching their children.
Slowly the Japanese are becoming accustomed to seeing the foreigners
in their towns.
It is these king of talks that Yoko and
I have had. She was more than happy to entertain me for the afternoon
while Jackie was at work.
Earlier in the week, she asked me what my favorite food was so far. I told her that Jackie and I had been to a restaurant where we had okonomiyaki. I thoroughly enjoyed it. She then said that Jackie and I should come over and she would show us how it is made. Wow that is quite the invitation and I was quite excited to participate. The plans evolved into a whole afternoon event.
She picked me up and we immediately went to her favorite grocery store. She had to buy all the ingredients. More over she wanted to show me all the foods that make up a Japanese grocery store. We spent over an hour in two grocery stores. She showed me all kinds of wild and wonderful vegetables, fruits, fish, rice, seaweed. powders and teas that I have never seen or at least never looked for in Calgary. Once we had all the ingredients we went back to her house and waited for her teacher.
I think in the previous blog, I said Yoko San was a teacher. She isn't. She is a student and it takes a lot of practice to learn how to dress someone in a kimono. The teacher came and the fun started. This women of whom I can't remember her name, has apparently held the country honor of being able to put on her own Kimono the fastest. After I was in one, I can't believe she is actually able to put it on herself.
There was much fussing about the colors of the kimonos and sashes and ties. There was several kimonos there which surprised me. I am told that the kimono usually costs approximately $1000.00 Canadian, and that is at its cheapest. Yoko San had several handed down to her from her mom and several she has acquired over the years.
Finally everything was decided while I stood wondering what to do. Off with the clothes. The Japanese have no body issues. The teacher helped me on with a top half slip which was tied in the back and a half slip. Then because I had bigger feet than them they found me a pair of stretchy split toe socks to put on. Okay, its starting to come together, I thought. Then the second layer of a lighter but fancy shorter Kimono. This is the first layer around the neck. There was much tying and cinching and knotting. However because it is behind you, I had no idea what was going on. Next the most beautiful silk Kimono was put on me. More belts and wrap around ties with plastic, cardboard inserted in the front to keep it flat I guess. The silk and brocade wrap around the waist was put on and cinched and more ties and rope belts. In the end I was in a kimono and felt quite elegant. Uncomfortable, but elegant. Then Jackie arrived and I got to watch how they dressed her. It is unbelievably complicated. We both looked so elegant. Yes there was lots of pictures taken.
The teacher left and then Yoko San had us to her tea ceremony. That is another thing all steeped in tradition.
We then undressed,although we didn't want to and went to the kitchen to make Okonomiyaki. A pancake type batter is used to bind together the cabbage, noodles, meat vegetables, fish layers. It is usually cooked at the table and in a restaurant you get to use the wooden spatula to eat it with.
I was also served Sake and another sake like drink. Jackie and Yoko couldn't join me as there is zero tolerance for drinking and driving.
It was the most wonderful afternoon. And something that I will remember for a very long time about my trip to Japan.”
Earlier in the week, she asked me what my favorite food was so far. I told her that Jackie and I had been to a restaurant where we had okonomiyaki. I thoroughly enjoyed it. She then said that Jackie and I should come over and she would show us how it is made. Wow that is quite the invitation and I was quite excited to participate. The plans evolved into a whole afternoon event.
She picked me up and we immediately went to her favorite grocery store. She had to buy all the ingredients. More over she wanted to show me all the foods that make up a Japanese grocery store. We spent over an hour in two grocery stores. She showed me all kinds of wild and wonderful vegetables, fruits, fish, rice, seaweed. powders and teas that I have never seen or at least never looked for in Calgary. Once we had all the ingredients we went back to her house and waited for her teacher.
I think in the previous blog, I said Yoko San was a teacher. She isn't. She is a student and it takes a lot of practice to learn how to dress someone in a kimono. The teacher came and the fun started. This women of whom I can't remember her name, has apparently held the country honor of being able to put on her own Kimono the fastest. After I was in one, I can't believe she is actually able to put it on herself.
There was much fussing about the colors of the kimonos and sashes and ties. There was several kimonos there which surprised me. I am told that the kimono usually costs approximately $1000.00 Canadian, and that is at its cheapest. Yoko San had several handed down to her from her mom and several she has acquired over the years.
Finally everything was decided while I stood wondering what to do. Off with the clothes. The Japanese have no body issues. The teacher helped me on with a top half slip which was tied in the back and a half slip. Then because I had bigger feet than them they found me a pair of stretchy split toe socks to put on. Okay, its starting to come together, I thought. Then the second layer of a lighter but fancy shorter Kimono. This is the first layer around the neck. There was much tying and cinching and knotting. However because it is behind you, I had no idea what was going on. Next the most beautiful silk Kimono was put on me. More belts and wrap around ties with plastic, cardboard inserted in the front to keep it flat I guess. The silk and brocade wrap around the waist was put on and cinched and more ties and rope belts. In the end I was in a kimono and felt quite elegant. Uncomfortable, but elegant. Then Jackie arrived and I got to watch how they dressed her. It is unbelievably complicated. We both looked so elegant. Yes there was lots of pictures taken.
The teacher left and then Yoko San had us to her tea ceremony. That is another thing all steeped in tradition.
We then undressed,although we didn't want to and went to the kitchen to make Okonomiyaki. A pancake type batter is used to bind together the cabbage, noodles, meat vegetables, fish layers. It is usually cooked at the table and in a restaurant you get to use the wooden spatula to eat it with.
I was also served Sake and another sake like drink. Jackie and Yoko couldn't join me as there is zero tolerance for drinking and driving.
It was the most wonderful afternoon. And something that I will remember for a very long time about my trip to Japan.”
The following blog was what I felt
about Japan at the end of my trip.
Thoughts On Japan.
“I have been asked many times what I
think of Japan. My first answer is that it is more beautiful than I
thought. For what ever reason, I thought of Japan as an endless flat
land with wall to wall people. I cannot get over how wonderfully lush
and green and mountainous Japan is. If I would have thought about it,
of course it is mountainous, because it is volcanic land.
The fauna and flora is so variant. I did not expect to see Palm trees, large fern like plants and trees. There are pine trees along side of maple trees. Of course I have talked to death the beauty of the Cherry Blossom trees. Jackie has a blooming Magnolia tree in her front yard. It is all so wonderful.
Japan is clean. I mean squeaky clean. When I got off the plane and entered the airport, I couldn't believe how shiny the floors were. Yesterday, Jackie and I were on a train to Fukuyama. You could have seen your face in the polished shine of the train floor. I am not kidding.
As I mentioned before, they are into dividing their garbage into combustibles, etc. Leaving trash behind is never heard of. It is just not done.
Jackie was telling me about the school children. They have lunch. The pre arranged list of children have to go down to get the soup pots and dishes and etc. They are also the ones that have to serve each child. Each child has the same thing and no one is allowed to not to finish their meal. Allergies are unheard of. After lunch, they then clean the school. There are no janitors. Each child has their turn at cleaning the desks, toilets etc. I understand how it would be in their best interest to keep things clean.
The Japanese toilets,as a matter of rule, do not have hot running water. Most sinks run cold water. They usually don't have soap or paper towels. Everyone has a small cloth, usually terry, in their purse or pocket and they dry their hands on them. These cloths seem to be another place of fashion expression. When you eat or have a coffee in a restaurant, you are given either hot wet towels, or more likely individually wrapped disposable hand cleaners to use prior to eating.
Most of the drivers of bus or taxi wear white gloves. They also wear suits. It is very formal looking.
The Japanese people are always dressed very smartly. Usually business suits, both men and women. Women who are not in business wear, dress in very fashionable clothes with the best high heel shoes and matching purses. Even the children wear good clothes and if they wear jeans they are the designer jeans and lovely jackets and intricate blouses. The more mature women seem to wear dresses and skirts more often.
The school children wear uniforms. They girls wear black skirts, and white knee socks. The boys wear black suits. They are the same. Even their backpacks are the same. Their shoes are black. I wonder if dressing in a uniform all their formative life follows to their adult life as stylish dress wear.
Practically everyone has a cell phone. They are constantly in their hand. No one is speaking. They text message each other constantly. They rarely need to call someone and talk. I think that is an interesting concept that I can't wait to take hold in Canada. The cell phones here are technologically so far ahead. I had a hey day looking at all the cell phones that I will not be able to use back home. By the way the cell phones are always decked out in bling. Jackie says it is one way to express themselves.
The Japanese people are endlessly polite. It took me a long time to get use to everyone bowing. The cart lady on the train who brings refreshments will bow upon entering and leaving each car. It is a slight bow at the waist with the hands together in front of your body.
I have seen business men really bow and bow many times to each other. I wondered where the cut off is to bowing. Quite often as I walked the paths of Jackie's home, I will run across some women and they always seem to bow which reflexively makes me bow back. I don't know why it just happens.
The newscasters always bow at the beginning of each segment and as it goes to commercial. Respect is a huge here. Having said that I found it funny that entering a busy train, it is every person for themselves. No one gives up their seat. However they do cue up for the entrance to the train.
I like their language. It is almost musical in tone. It is most often soft, unless you are in a market where they are yelling for you to enter their store. The yelling is more musical and has pitches to it. When you enter a shop their is always, and I mean always someone their to greet you. I believe it is something equivalent to welcome to our store, or thank you for coming and sometimes a little bow. It makes you feel important.
When you pay for your goods, there seems to be this procedure that I think I have figured out. They ring it up and then tell you the amount. You get your money and then put it in the tray. I think never directly into their hands. The change you get back is given to you in the paper money first. It is handed over to you with both of their hands like an presentation. I believe you are to receive it with both hands. Then they hand you the change with both hands and again you accept it with both hands. They say arigota something something and give a head bow.
There are so many little details and traditions that I have enjoyed. I can only imagine the years of history behind them. It is a mystery to me, but it is not to the Japanese people.”
The fauna and flora is so variant. I did not expect to see Palm trees, large fern like plants and trees. There are pine trees along side of maple trees. Of course I have talked to death the beauty of the Cherry Blossom trees. Jackie has a blooming Magnolia tree in her front yard. It is all so wonderful.
Japan is clean. I mean squeaky clean. When I got off the plane and entered the airport, I couldn't believe how shiny the floors were. Yesterday, Jackie and I were on a train to Fukuyama. You could have seen your face in the polished shine of the train floor. I am not kidding.
As I mentioned before, they are into dividing their garbage into combustibles, etc. Leaving trash behind is never heard of. It is just not done.
Jackie was telling me about the school children. They have lunch. The pre arranged list of children have to go down to get the soup pots and dishes and etc. They are also the ones that have to serve each child. Each child has the same thing and no one is allowed to not to finish their meal. Allergies are unheard of. After lunch, they then clean the school. There are no janitors. Each child has their turn at cleaning the desks, toilets etc. I understand how it would be in their best interest to keep things clean.
The Japanese toilets,as a matter of rule, do not have hot running water. Most sinks run cold water. They usually don't have soap or paper towels. Everyone has a small cloth, usually terry, in their purse or pocket and they dry their hands on them. These cloths seem to be another place of fashion expression. When you eat or have a coffee in a restaurant, you are given either hot wet towels, or more likely individually wrapped disposable hand cleaners to use prior to eating.
Most of the drivers of bus or taxi wear white gloves. They also wear suits. It is very formal looking.
The Japanese people are always dressed very smartly. Usually business suits, both men and women. Women who are not in business wear, dress in very fashionable clothes with the best high heel shoes and matching purses. Even the children wear good clothes and if they wear jeans they are the designer jeans and lovely jackets and intricate blouses. The more mature women seem to wear dresses and skirts more often.
The school children wear uniforms. They girls wear black skirts, and white knee socks. The boys wear black suits. They are the same. Even their backpacks are the same. Their shoes are black. I wonder if dressing in a uniform all their formative life follows to their adult life as stylish dress wear.
Practically everyone has a cell phone. They are constantly in their hand. No one is speaking. They text message each other constantly. They rarely need to call someone and talk. I think that is an interesting concept that I can't wait to take hold in Canada. The cell phones here are technologically so far ahead. I had a hey day looking at all the cell phones that I will not be able to use back home. By the way the cell phones are always decked out in bling. Jackie says it is one way to express themselves.
The Japanese people are endlessly polite. It took me a long time to get use to everyone bowing. The cart lady on the train who brings refreshments will bow upon entering and leaving each car. It is a slight bow at the waist with the hands together in front of your body.
I have seen business men really bow and bow many times to each other. I wondered where the cut off is to bowing. Quite often as I walked the paths of Jackie's home, I will run across some women and they always seem to bow which reflexively makes me bow back. I don't know why it just happens.
The newscasters always bow at the beginning of each segment and as it goes to commercial. Respect is a huge here. Having said that I found it funny that entering a busy train, it is every person for themselves. No one gives up their seat. However they do cue up for the entrance to the train.
I like their language. It is almost musical in tone. It is most often soft, unless you are in a market where they are yelling for you to enter their store. The yelling is more musical and has pitches to it. When you enter a shop their is always, and I mean always someone their to greet you. I believe it is something equivalent to welcome to our store, or thank you for coming and sometimes a little bow. It makes you feel important.
When you pay for your goods, there seems to be this procedure that I think I have figured out. They ring it up and then tell you the amount. You get your money and then put it in the tray. I think never directly into their hands. The change you get back is given to you in the paper money first. It is handed over to you with both of their hands like an presentation. I believe you are to receive it with both hands. Then they hand you the change with both hands and again you accept it with both hands. They say arigota something something and give a head bow.
There are so many little details and traditions that I have enjoyed. I can only imagine the years of history behind them. It is a mystery to me, but it is not to the Japanese people.”
Wendy
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